INSIDE HAWAII'S SMALL BUT MIGHTY RUM INDUSTRY

Hawaii’s long history of sugarcane production makes it the perfect place to produce high-quality rum—and with a new wave of talented distillers, that potential is fast becoming a reality.

While rum can be distilled in many parts of the world, its foundation and origin lie in the Caribbean. But recently, a growing rum movement has emerged from another set of islands—one with deep roots in sugarcane, new distilling techniques, and a terroir that is primed for rum distilling. These islands? Hawaii.

Despite a long history of sugarcane production and minor forays into rum production in the 1960s and 70s, the Hawaiian Islands did not have a meaningful rum industry until just over a decade ago. But thanks to intrepid distillers with a desire to return to the islands’ cultural roots, Hawaii has established itself as a growing source of expressive rum. Though the Hawaiian rum industry is tiny, it’s quickly finding its niche within the category as producers focus on reviving native varieties of sugarcane. The result is an energetic set of rums that taste distinctly of Hawaii.

A Missed Opportunity

Brought to the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians approximately 1,500 years ago, sugarcane became a sacred, life-sustaining crop. By the 1800s, sugarcane plantations were abundant in Hawaii and provided a boon to the island’s burgeoning economy. While those in the Caribbean focused on rum, Hawaii’s locals concentrated on exporting sugar.

The sugar industry was Hawaii’s calling card for centuries, made even more lucrative by the reciprocity agreement the U.S. signed in 1875 with the Kingdom of Hawaii, allowing the trade of sugar and cotton to flourish. Built on the backs of immigrant labour and land leasing, the rules changed in 1959 when Hawaii became a state. As labour became more expensive, plantation owners abandoned the sugar trade in Hawaii and set up shop in underdeveloped countries.

A New Kind of Rum

Because other rum cultures have been around for centuries, many of the pioneering islands and regions have established classic flavour profiles based on traditions, regulations, and terroir. But Hawaii’s distillers are doing things their own way, taking a more experimental approach to cultivating the islands’ rum culture. Hawaii is not just making the classic white, dark, and gold rums either. With spiced and flavoured rums becoming increasingly attractive to cocktail creators and drinkers—Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS) notes that flavoured and spiced rums now account for more than 56 percent of all rums sold—Hawaii’s producers are embracing these styles and are therefore poised for growth. Kōloa Rum Co. has been focused on its expanded rum offerings, including Kōloa Kaua’i Spice Rum and other flavoured rums such as coconut, coffee and cacao, in addition to its classically styled rums. “It’s the richness and diversity of our rums that is attracting more consumers,” says Bob Gunter, the president and CEO of Kōloa Rum Co.

A Promising Future

According to the DISCUS, 24.7 million nine-litter cases of rum were sold in the United States, generating nearly $2.5 billion in revenue for distillers in 2021. But, as the rum segment is diversifying, it is also being reflected in sipping culture.

It may have taken a bit to get started, but Hawaiian rum is growing—not only on the islands, but on the U.S. mainland as well. Still, availability outside of Hawaii is limited. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, in 2014, exports of Hawaiian rum to the world were valued at $43,990; by 2021, they reached $74,009. While small, the growth is substantial for an industry that has little more than a decade on the books.

All of the major distillers have worked to create a sense of place in their spirits and each has dedicated themselves to rejuvenating the once prized-crop of Hawaii. But, there are still certain challenges that are keeping the process from growing as quickly as it could.